Tuesday 3 March 2020

Balenciaga floods runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show

Balenciaga floods runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show

Luxury fashion house Balenciaga has presented its autumn/winter 2020 collection on a purposefully flooded catwalk to draw attention to the threat of climate change and rising sea levels.

Set within the Cité du Cinema film studio complex in Paris, the Balenciaga show took place on a central runway submerged under water, which was surrounded by an oblong amphitheatre of seats.

Although only a few centimetres deep, this water created the illusion of an almost bottomless abyss at the centre of the show.

The first three, most sought-after, rows of seating were also partially engulfed by water. This meant attendees had to watch from further back, at a slight distance from the spectacle.

Balenciaga floods runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show

An LED screen suspended from the ceiling flitted between natural scenes including crashing waves, churning clouds, swarming crows and bright red glowing lava, which were reflected in the water below.

Models in the first section of the show were dressed in all-black ensembles, while others donned branded wellies, galoshes and latex trench coats as they sloshed down the runway.

The collection saw creative director Demna Gvasalia expand his ongoing fascination with workwear – as seen in the famous Vetements DHL T-shirts – into a whole new set of professions in the form of priest's robes and football uniforms.

The music that accompanied the show alternated between ominous classical melodies and dark, aggressive techno to add to the oppressive atmosphere.

Balenciaga floods runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show

In keeping with the set's environmental message, the brand reportedly plans to have the water returned to, and reused, by the city of Paris.

Despite these efforts, the show still showcased 105 different outfits, at a time when activist groups including Extinction Rebellion are calling out the fashion industry for being one of the world's most polluting.

Balenciaga floods runway for apocalyptic Paris Fashion Week show

In 2019, the design for Balenciaga's spring/summer show was equally political, with a monochromatic EU blue set and a bespoke scentscape intended to captured the smell of power.

The year before that, Gvasalia took on the digital age by staging the show inside of a tunnel of LED screens, that created the impression of being inside of a computer.

Within the scientific community, rising sea levels have been an increasingly urgent concern, as they present one of climate change's most immediately tangible – and devastating – effects. A Dutch oceanographer recently suggested that erecting two dams in the North Sea could be a last ditch effort to defend Europe from the encroaching waves.

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Tickets are now available for March’s Nicer Tuesdays!

This month, on the 31st, we’ll be joined by Studio Output, Sam Gainsborough, Joy Yamusangie and Abbie Trayler-Smith. See you there!



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A Love Story: the BAFTA-winning short that follows the heartbreaking journey of two animated yarn puppets

Directed and animated by Anushka Kishani Naanayakkara, A Love Story follows the story of two woollen characters as they navigate through happiness, love, loss and “emotional ache”.



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Watch our talk with Formafantasma live from the Serpentine Gallery in London

Dezeen's chief content officer Ben Hobson will speak to Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin of Formafantasma about their new exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery in London

Dezeen's chief content officer Ben Hobson will speak to Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin of Formafantasma about their new exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery in London. Watch the talk here live from 5:00pm.

The stream has not started yet. Watch it here live from 5:00pm UK time. 

The talk coincides with the opening of the Italian design duo's new exhibition at London's Serpentine Gallery. Titled Cambio, the exhibition examines the use of wood as a material in global industry and the impact it has had on the environment.

The conversation will explore the designers' research into the topic, which delves into history of the wood industry and its supply chains.

Cambio marks the third ever design-focussed exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery and is part of a programme of events celebrating the institution's 50th anniversary this year.

Dezeen's chief content officer Ben Hobson will speak to Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin of Formafantasma about their new exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery in London
Formafantasma will be in discussion with Dezeen last the Serpentine Gallery in London

Based in Amsterdam, Formafantsma's work often investigates materials through their historical context and impact on the biosphere.

They've previously designed a collection of surface tiles glazed with volcanic ash from Mount Etna and a recyclable exhibition display for the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

Dezeen hosts and livestreams talks and panel discussions from around the world.

Recent examples include a talk with Lego on childhood and creativity and a talk with London-based design practice Doshi Levien at Stockholm Furniture Fair.

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Pretty Plastic shingles made from recycled PVC windows and gutters are "first 100 per cent recycled cladding material"

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA

A new range of facade cladding tiles made of recycled PVC construction waste, designed by Dutch studios Overtreders W and Bureau SLA, has been used on a permanent building for the first time.

Called Pretty Plastic, the designers claim the product is the "first 100 per cent recycled cladding material" in the world.

The first permanent building to be clad in the hanging tiles, a school music pavilion in the Netherlands, was completed by Dutch studio Grosfeld Bekkers Van der Velde Architecten in January.

Grey diamond-shaped shingles are made from shredded PVC building products such as window frames, downspouts and rain gutters. They are hung in overlapping rows from a single screw.

First developed in 2017, the tiles received fire approval in class B (very difficult to burn) last year, allowing them to be used as a cladding material on external facades.

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
The diamond-shaped Pretty Plastic tiles are hung from a single screw. The photo is courtesy of Pretty Plastic

The tiles were initially developed for the People's Pavilion, a temporary auditorium constructed at Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven in 2017.

Designed by Bureau SLA and Overtreders W, the pavilion demonstrated how the principles of the circular economy could be applied to architecture, with every component designed to be used again once the structure was demounted.

The pavilion was clad in 9,000 bespoke moulded plastic shingles made of waste collected from local residents.

Architects Peter van Assche of Bureau SLA and Reinder Bakker, and Hester van Dijk of Overtreders W, then developed the shingles into a commercial product.

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
The tiles are made from waste PVC construction products such as windows and drainpipes

"After the success of the People's Pavilion many people asked us where the upcycled plastic facade tiles could be bought," van Dijk told Dezeen. "So we decided to start a new company called Pretty Plastic."

"Apart from bio-based materials, genuine 100 per cent sustainable cladding materials hardly exist," added van Assche. "Pretty Plastic is the first facade material made from 100 per cent upcycled plastic waste as far as we know."

"For people looking for recycled materials that contribute to a circular economy, Pretty Plastic is one of the few products that can be used on facades," he continued.

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
Pretty Plastic has been developed by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA to encourage the reuse of construction waste

Each Pretty Plastic tile is made from material collected from building sites across the Netherlands, before being sorted and shredded into five-millimetre-wide pieces.

After being cut up, they are shipped to Belgium where they are transformed into shingles by Govaplast, a company that makes materials from recycled plastic.

Pretty Plastic is currently available in a range of grey tones. Every tile has a unique finish created by the use of different plastic products.

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
The first permanent building to use the tiles is a music pavilion at the Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium school in the Netherlands

The Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium school at Oosterhout in the Netherlands is the first permanent structure to be clad in the shingles.

Pascal Grosfeld of Grosfeld Bekkers Van der Velde Architecten enquired about the product after seeing them on the demonstration building at Dutch Design Week.

"As with many good things in life, the collaboration came by chance," said van Assche. "Pascal Grosfeld had been interested in the plastic tiles since he visited the People's Pavilion."

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
Grosfeld Bekkers Van der Velde Architecten specified the tiles after seeing them in use at the People's Pavilion

"Pascal and I both attended the Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium as teenagers," van Assche added. "Pascal and the school loved being the guinea pig for Pretty Plastic. We loved that too."

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA are now working on expanding the range by developing a range of new colours and shapes.

Overtreders W and Bureau SLA Music Pavilion at Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium with Pretty Plastic cladding by Overtreders W and Bureau SLA
The overlapping shingles are similar in form to traditional clay or timber cladding systems

The role of plastic in a circular economy was a hot topic at the first Dezeen Day conference. In one of the panel discussions, Dutch designer Richard Hutten referred to plastic as "the cancer of our planet", while the CEO of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Andrew Morlet argued that we need to "keep it in the system".

In another discussion at the one-day conference, architect Arthur Mamou-Mani argued that "we still need" plastic while designer Nienke Hoogvliet said that "we shouldn't produce any more".

Photography is courtesy of Sint-Oelbert Gymnasium.

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